STEP ONE: PRIMER
Always apply primer as it stops makeup from shining and fading. It can be applied using light pressure with fingertips in smooth motions. Buy a primer that has light reflective technology (illumination) that will impart a radiance to the skin.
STEP TWO: CONCEALER
Use a concealer brush or very light dabs of fingertips to apply under the eyes, round the contours of the nose and any blemishes.
STEP THREE: BRIGHTEN AND FOUNDATION
Blend illuminator and foundation together and apply with foundation brush using light strokes in gentle even movements. Using just illuminator/highlighter place a dab on the cupid bow (lip) and on the tear ducts of the eyes to create a youthful radiance and glow.
STEP FOUR: CONTOUR
Contour in the hollows of the cheekbones from the top of the ear down to the cheekbone, around the jawline, temples, forehead and a slight sweep down either side of the nose, this should be done using the angled blusher/contour brush in very gently circular motions and repeat until the desired effect is achieved. Blend the dark and medium contour palettes together and tap away excess. The light palette should be used to soften the finished look in gentle motions.
STEP FIVE: HIGHLIGHT
Using highlighter from the contour palette or preferred option gently highlight just inside the browbone and over the tops of the cheekbones this should be a subtle light diffused look and should not clash with the contouring at step four above. A dab of highlighter can be used on the cupid bow to create a full luscious lip.
STEP SIX: BLUSH/BRONZE
Apply some bronzer to the cheekbones very gently to create a radiant glow and continue down the nose, and around the temples and hairline, this should be a subtle flawless finish and not obvious. Apply blusher gently to the apples of the cheeks only and blend in, pink tones are good for a rosy, healthy glow but again just the tiniest smidge of a dab needed.
STEP SEVEN: EYES
Depending on the look desired, use either a nude, smoky or glam palette start with highlighter under the browbone, follow with a light colour from the corner of the eye to merge with the tear duct area, subtle colour in the middle and a darker colour in the crease (socket) down to the outside of the eye. All applied with a soft eye brush and blended so the colour becomes seamless. Next apply some gel liner, with an angled brush from the middle of the eyelid down to the inside of the tear duct and from middle to the outside of the eye ending in a flick or a straight line. TIP: to make the eye appear larger and to enhance the shape this long continuous line is needed. Shorter lines will create an appearance of smaller eyes. Blend a subtle gentle line under the bottom eyelid using a light colour shadow or pencil. Apply mascara. Apply browdrama mascara to the brows or blend natural and darker shades of eyeshadow directly onto the brow area.
STEP EIGHT: FINISHING POWDER
Using a light finishing brush sweep a small amount of translucent finishing powder to seal the look.
STEP NINE: LIPS
Apply a light layer of lip colour using the appropriate brush then outline the lips with a pencil and apply another light layer of lip colour with the brush. Dab a small amount of pigment/eyeshadow or light reflective lip colour in the centre of both lips to create a full lush lipped mouth.
Laura Mercier, Trish McEvoy have excellent brushes which are named making it easier to know which tool does which job. For Blending, try the appropriate brush or a blending sponge which is very easy to use.
Clean the tools with a face wipe to rid of excess product and then wash them out regularly with shampoo. Brush cleaners work well but have to be shampooed and rinsed as they leave an oily film but they do get the brushes really clean (use monthly).
Buy duplicates and triplicates of your tools so that you have a handy clean supply ready during washing/drying times.
Makeup works well in layers, so after each process you may want to go back and repeat steps such as the highlighting which is mentioned repeatedly above. Colour and contouring is achieved in this way, by repeating the layers until the desired effect has been achieved, overloading the brushes and applying excess in one layer will not look radiant in the finish! Take your time and before you know it, this fine art will be achieved in 10-12 minutes.
For tutorials/refreshers/new techniques consult our vlogs/tutogs on our website keyword searching for tutorials at www.maisonduvann.com